A fall tradition - Green Chili

Every year I visit Santa Fe, NM in the fall to experience the various festivals and enjoy the great food. During my visit, I make a point of visiting the farmers market and stocking up on some local chilies. I've been buying Chimayo chilies for their great flavor and spice - they make a wonderful green chili stew.

The green chili stew starts off with about a half bushel of roasted Chimayo chilies. Peel and seed the Chimayos, then dice them into half inch pieces. Reserve the diced chilies and any juices for later.

Next braise the pork - I usually use pork shoulder (while i use boneless shoulders from CostCo - bone-in would be preferable). For the braise, you'll need a large heavy pot - this is where my 9q Le Creuset comes in handy! Brown the pork shoulder on all sides and remove. Then add onion, garlic, celery and parsley to the pot - scraping up any accumulated fond. Add spices (coriander, cumin, cinnamon, brown sugar, salt, black pepper and chili powder) and cook with the vegetables. Return the pork shoulder to the pot and add chicken stock until about 2/3rds of the shoulder is submerged. Bring up to a boil, then cover and braise in a 250 degree oven for 3 hours. You should rotate the shoulder about ever hour. Once the pork is done, remove from the braising liquid, and cool to a safe handling temperature. Strain and reserve the cooking liquid - once cool you should skim off any fat that has risen to the top. Discard the spent vegetables. Cut the pork shoulder into a small dice - I recommend a electric knife since this is a lot of meat and typically big pieces.

Next you can start the base for the stew - begin by sauteing onions, add garlic, tomato paste, and diced potatoes. Next add the reserved stock from the braise - bring up to a boil and add the diced chilies. At this point, check for salt. Simmer for 20 minutes, then add the diced pork and continue to simmer. Check the seasoning again. You may need to adjust the amount of liquid by adding more chicken stock, or by simmering down to reduce. You can also add flour paste if you want a thicker chili.

Serve on its own with a bit of sour cream and a tortilla, or serve over tamales!

This has become one of our household favorites so I usually make a double batch and freeze to enjoy throughout the year!

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week26

A great CSA season comes to a close with week 26. As I look back over the last 26 weeks, we've had an amazing bounty of vegetables. While there were some weeks where I couldn't believe there was still more kale or cilantro, I was exposed to many things I've never cooked before, which expanded my cooking repertoire! Additionally, I learned about what grew in our Colorado seasons - so often we're disconnected from reality when we're buying tomatoes in December, forgetting they were trucked half way across the country. The flavors of locally grown tomatoes, allowed to ripen on the vine, then picked at their peak was unlike anything i've every experienced from a store bought tomato. Sometimes there was more food then I could handle (especially when I was traveling for business) - this taught me what needed to be eaten immediately versus what could survive in the fridge until I could get to it.

This week's harvest included:

• Kambocha squash
  
• Acorn squash
  
• Carrots
  
• Potatoes
  
• Onions
  
• Brussel sprouts
  
• Diakon radish
  
• Decorative corn
  
• Beets
  
• Cabbage
  
• And Wine!

Thank you to Grant Family Farms for a great CSA experience - I'll be back next year!

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week25

Week 25 continues the fall harvest with a nice variety, including:

• Spinach
  
• Brussel sprouts
  
• Kambocha squash
  
• Pumpkin
  
• Diakon radish
  
• Broccoli
  
• Radishes
  
• Beets
  
• Carrots
  
• Potatoes
  
• Chard

The brussel sprouts were fantastic - I removed them from the stalk, then cut an x into the base off each sprout. I boiled them for 7 minutes in salted water. I removed and then tossed with a mustard butter with truffle oil.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week24

Another great food week with brussel sprouts on the stalk!

This week I made a curried butternut squash soup with cilantro oil and creme fraiche.

The recipe was adopted from Deborah Madison's Greens Cookbook. The soup starts with simple vegetable stock made from carrots, zucchini, celery, onion, potato, parsley and curry spices (cinnamon, clove, garlic, coriander, cumin and cardamom). Cook everything together and then strain the stock. For the soup, saute onion, and cubed butternut squash until tender. Next add ground curry spices (cumin, coriander, mustard seeds, cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, and cayenne pepper) with fresh garlic and ginger. Continue to cook until the spices become fragrant. Then add the soup stock and simmer until all the flavors come together. Finally, puree the soup in batches until smooth.

For the cilantro oil, quickly blanch the cilantro in boiling water and shock in an ice bath to preserve the color. Then puree until smooth with a neutral flavored olive oil. Add a pinch of salt.

For the creme fraiche, bring whole milk or half and half to a simmer, take off the heat and once its returned to room temperature mix in some cultured buttermilk. Let the mixture stand, covered for a day or until the desired thickness is achieved.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week23

This week's harvest includes:

• Baby greens
  
• Broccoli
  
• Beets
  
• Carrots
  
• Potatoes
  
• Spagetti squash
  
• Dino kale
  
• Curly kale
  
• Spinash
  
• Cabbage
  

The napa cabbage from Grant Family farms continues to be beautiful - this week I made another slaw. I also made a quick version of creamed spinach. Cook down the spinach until soft, then add butter, and milk. I also added some diced chipotle chilies for some extra spice.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week22

This weeks basket included:

• Baby greens
  
• Cabbage
  
• Cilantro
  
• Napa cabbage
  
• Red leaf lettuce
  
• Curly kale
  
• Green chilies
  
• Red skinned carrots
  
• Beets
  
• Potatoes
  
• Butternut squash

This week I made a slaw with the napa cabbage and carrots. Slice the cabbage as thinly as possible. Shred the carrots, and add to the cabbage. Salt and let sit for about an hour. Using cheese cloth, squeeze out the moisture as best you can. Make a dressing - I use canola oil, and dijon mustard to create a base emulsion. Then add honey, lime juice, olive oil, salt, pepper and chipotle peppers with adobo sauce. Toss with the dressing and serve.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week21

This was a great harvest week - hard to believe its November with fresh greens like these. Additionally, this week's basket included these beautiful red skinned carrots that had amazing flavor - probably the best carrot I've ever tasted.

• Baby greens
  
• Spinach
  
• Onions
  
• Cabbage
  
• Lettuce
  
• Chard
  
• Beets
  
• Carrots
  
• Leeks
  
• Green chilies
  
• Cauliflower
  
• Butternut squash
  
• Cilantro
  

I had a couple of heads of cabbage from the past several weeks, so i used them for a braised cabbage dish. Remove the tough core from the cabbage, then slice into wedges. Arrange the wedges in a glass baking dish. Add sliced onion and carrot. Sprinkle on salt, pepper and red pepper flake (you can also add other herbs - I had extra thyme that worked perfectly). Then drizzle on olive oil. Add chicken stock to prevent the dish from drying out.. Tightly cover with aluminum foil and bake for 2 hours on 325 degrees. After an hour flip the cabbage wedges. Raise the temperature to 400, remove the foil and cook until the top begins to brown.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week20

The produce continues, this week's basket includes:

• Baby greens
  
• Rainbow chard
  
• Broccoli
  
• Red new potatoes
  
• Leeks
  
• Onions
  
• Romaine lettuce
  
• Mini pumpkins
  
• Squash
  

No inspired recipes this week, just plain old good food! I roasted the squash (Kabocha i think) and served with a bit of butter, salt and pepper. The Kabocha squash has a very delicate, custard like consistency.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week19

Fall has definitely started! Decorative corn and squash are included in this week's basket, but we've still got some reminders of sumer with lettuce and tomatoes.

• Corn
  
• Squash
  
• Spagetti squash
  
• Celery
  
• Baby greens
  
• Green chilies
  
• Carrots
  
• Onions
  
• Romaine lettuce
  
• Curly kale
  
• Curly parsley
  

This week I used the onions, green chilies (including those from week 18) and last week's cilantro to make a quick rice dish. Roast the chilies, then peel, seed and dice. Slice the onions and grill to add some smoke flavor, then dice them and combine with diced chilies. Finally, roughly chop the cilantro and combine the chilies, onions, cilantro with some cooked rice. Dress lighly with lime juice and a neutral flavored olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste. To kick it up a bit, you can add some cayenne pepper and some ground cumin.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week18

Week 18 baskets:

• Cucumber
  
• Small pickling cucumbers
  
• Golden Beets
  
• Eggplant
  
• Green chilies
  
• Acorn Squash
  
• Pumpkin
  
• Flat leaf parsley
  
• Curly parsley
  
• Cilantro
  
• Cabbage
  
• Swish chard
  
• Celery
  

One of my favorite dishes for this week is a simple roasted beet salad with blue cheese. Start off by lightly coating the beets in olive oil, then wrapping each individually in tin foil. Roast in a 350 degree oven until tender, you should be able to easily slide a knife into the center of the beet. Roasting time will vary based on the size of the beets, i usually find medium beets to take about 1.5 hours.

Once done, let cool, then remove from the foil, and remove skin. I use a paper towel to lightly scrub the surface of the beets - the skin comes right off. Next slice the beets into wedges or slices. Toss with olive oil, salt, pepper, balsamic vinegar and top with a blue cheese, like blue or gorgonzola.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week17

Week 17 continues with a nice variety of vegetables, including:

• Baby Greens
  
• Cilantro
  
• Green Peppers
  
• Broccholi
  
• Tomatoes
  
• Cucumber
  
• Eggplant
  
• Green Beans
  
• Celery
  
• Rainbow Chard
  
• Yukon Gold Potatoes
  
• Corn
  
• And Beer!
  

Over the last few weeks there has been a lot of eggplant so we've taken to making eggplant parmesan. First peel and slice the eggplants into thick rounds. Salt both sides of the slices liberally then lay out on a clean towel. Cover with another towel, then place a cutting board over and add weight. This will help to pull the water out of the eggplant. Bread and fry the eggplant. Move to a sheet pan, cover with a slice of cheese and bake until bubbly. Finally, plate and cover with a bit of sauce.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week16

Week 16 continues with the beautiful produce, although not nearly the size of last week's enormous basket. This week included:

• Watermelon
  
• Zucchini
  
• English peas
  
• Fava beans
  
• Tomatoes
  
• Green peppers
  
• Cucumber
  
• Eggplant
  
• Carrots
  
• Radishes
  
• Corn
  
• Baby Greens

This week many of the veggies went into a simple succotash - to spice things up a bit I added a bit of fennel pollen at the end. This complimented the vegetables nicely while adding a bit of a unique flavor.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week15

The CSA posts are a bit backlogged due to a hectic work travel schedule but, not to fear, I've still been cataloging the weekly basket (with a little help)!

Week 15 is one of the largest baskets of the year, including:

• Baby Greens
  
• Giant Beet
  
• Yellow Onion
  
• Cipollini Onion
  
• Carrots
  
• Parsley
  
• Green Beans
• Zucchini
  
• Eggplant
  
• Tomatoes
  
• Corn
  
• Celery
  
• Cabbage
  
• Spinach
  
• Romain Lettuce
  
• Watermelon
  
• Musk Melon

All this produce made it into several different dishes and salads. One of my go to dishes with all of this produce is a simple vegetable succotash - dice up all the veggies and saute with garlic, olive oil and fresh parsley until tender. This is a great way to utilize a lot of produce in a healthy, satisfying dish. The cabbage was made into a fresh slaw to accompany barbecued salmon. And the corn was roasted on the grill. I still haven't found a use for a beet of this size - probably would be best juiced.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week14

Holy tomato Batman! This week we had several pounds of perfectly ripe and delicious tomatoes - they're nothing like the bland, stiff and orange tomatoes that you find at most grocery stores. These are deep red all the way through - the red that only comes from vine ripening. They are juicy and tender. Finally comes the flavor - the perfect expression of summer's bounty.

This weeks basket includes:

• Celery
  
• Tomatoes
  
• Yellow Onions
  
• Japanese Eggplant
  
• Spinach
  
• Baby greens
  
• Green peppers
  
• Yukon Gold Potatoes
  

This week I made a couple of pastas - I slow roasted the tomatoes for about 2 hours at 250 degrees with dried oregano, garlic and olive oil. Then tossed with pasta for a very simple sauce. I also had some left overs from last week's basket that I used in a pasta - cipollini onions, parsley and fava beens were quickly cooked. I then added roasted tomatoes and eggplant and tossed with some left over pasta. This dish worked out amazingly well. Finally, I used celery, onions and potatoes in simple chicken soup with wild rice.

That does it for now! Week 15 just arrived and it is the largest basket of the season!

Steel Cut Oats in a Zojirushi

I purchased a Zojirushi induction rice cooker and have been experimenting with cooking steel cut oats in it. One of the great features of the Zojirushi is the timer setting - this allows me to put the oats and water in at night, and program them to be done by 6am the next morning. Add one portion of oats to three portions water, a bit of salt and start the Zojirushi using the porridge setting. An hour and fifteen minutes later the oats should be ready. Either cooked fresh, or by timer, the oats come out wonderfully; with more texture and flavor then traditional oatmeal. Due to the decreased processing, I also believe they're better for you! I like the oats flavored simply with a bit of maple syrup.

Twelve Restaurant - Under Review

For my next review on the Denver Restaurant Review, I'm working on Denver's Twelve Restaurant. Twelve has been open for 9 months and received some positive mentions from local press and folks in the industry. Look for the review due out in about a week!

San Francisco Food Hot Spots

I just returned from several days in San Francisco where I enjoyed great meals at several of the city's hot spots.

A16 - despite Chef Nate Appleman's departure, A16 continues to serve up outstanding dishes. I sat at the Chef's counter and observed masterful cooking in the 800 degree wood fired oven. I sampled two appetizers - the roasted chanterelle mushrooms, and the roasted peppers. The chanterelles were wonderful - perfectly cooked, smokey and full flavored. For the entree I tried the squid ink pasta, the ricotta gnocchi and the pork chop. The gnocchi was amazingly light, but still cohesive. The pork chop was probably the best I've ever had - flavorful meat with a thick layer of fat that was roasted into delicious submission. For dessert I had to try the chocolate budino tart with sea salt and olive oil. Although skeptical at first about the salt and olive oil - this dish really came together nicely. Overall, A16 did the local produce schtick very well - the ingredients were still respected but not at the expense of flavor or the success of the overall dish.

Hog Island Oyster Company - if you're in the area on Monday or Thursday, stop in for their happy hour (5-7pm). However, get their by 4:45 to make sure that you get a table or at least a spot at the standing bar. Try the $1 oysters and the 3.5 pints - including my favorite IPA, Racer 5.

R&G - this Chinatown favorite was recently featured in Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. Not my favorite restaurant of the trip, but if i was in the mood I might go back.

Cane Rosso - stop in for their great egg sandwich - opens @ 8am.

Taylor's Refresher - great spot for lunch. The ahi tuna burger was fantastic. A generous portion of sushi grade tuna, perfectly seared, accompanied by slaw and an egg bun.

Pizza Delfina - nice relaxed, neighborhood atmosphere serving great pizza!

Zuni Cafe - a San Francisco establishment, with the attitude that goes with it. While the food was good, I'd go back to A16 first.

Seduced by Papillon

Faced with a Saturday night at home, an average movie and a couple of hours to kill, I decided to liven things up with Orin Swift's 2005 Papillon. This Bordeaux style blend from California was the second wine I purchased from the local CostCo (the first was The Prisoner - see my other post here). At $50, this bottle was a hefty one, both on the checkbook and physically. The bottle itself is the first thing you'll notice, a pound and a half heavier then most other 750 ml bottles, and sporting a unique label.

After reading other online reviews (YoungWinosOfLA), I thought it best to open the bottle, decant and let breath for a full hour before diving in. The first taste was intriguing - smooth, high in alcohol, with flavors still wound up into an indiscernible mass. After more time, and frequent tastings I found hints of caramel / toffee, vanilla, clove, plum, chocolate and something a bit funky / earthy. This was a big wine that needed several hours to fully open up and enjoy - definitely not for the faint of heart (or wallet).

I'll definitely buy a few more bottles for cellaring.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week13

Week 13 marks the half way point in this year's Grant Family Farms CSA membership, and has me thinking of the experience to date. So far the experience has been an enlightening reconnection with the local food chain - learning to what's in season, what grows in Colorado, and how to make great food out of it. While the Cherry Creek farmers market may have tomatoes in May (when you question the purveyor you'll find that they are actually sourced from California), Grant Family Farms provides honest, locally grown produce. They may be one of the "mega" CSA's around, with several thousand acres under management, but for a first timer this has been a great experience. I hope the fair weather and plentiful moisture continues, so we can reap the full benefits of the coming harvest.

So on to the harvest - this week's basket included:

• Read leaf lettuce
  
• Beans
  
• Tomatoes
  
• Cucumber
  
• Zucchini
  
• Corn
  
• Spring baby greens
  
• Radishes
  
• Parsley
  
• Yellow squash (pattipan?)
  
• Potatoes (Yukons)
  
• Cipollini onions
  
• Kale

Overall, a larger diversity in produce then summer's early baskets. I used the produce in several ways, with varying success.

The various lettuces, tomatoes and cucumber were used in fresh green salads.

The zucchini, yellow squash, parsley, and tomatoes were used in a light pasta sauce with garlic, red pepper flake, onion, italian sausage, and basil. This dish was a wonderful expression of summer's bounty - full of fresh bright flavors.

The corn was cooked on the grill (my favorite preparation).

The radishes were prepared using a quick pickle method (vinegar, sugar and coriander) - while tasty, the odor was beyond funky.

The potatoes and onions were tossed with olive oil, garlic, salt, black pepper and paprika. Then oven roasted until cooked through. Unfortunately, the potatoes were a bit dry - Yukons would probably do better in a stewing preparation, or mashed with copious amounts of butter and milk!

The kale was cooked with garlic, red pepper flake, olive oil and lemon - one of my favorite kale preparations. This dish is full flavored and spicy - however, you can adjust the flavor level by adding / removing garlic to taste.

Finally, I used the remaining parsley and tomatoes in a simple tabbouleh with bulgar wheat, mint, scallions, garlic, olive oil and lemon. This dish was a wonderful accompaniment to the Moroccan spiced lamb sliders w/ cucumber yogurt sauce.

With Week 14's basket arriving tomorrow, I still have all the beans, a few potatoes and a few onions to deal with. Overall, we worked through the basket effectively, eating many healthy flavor meals, despite eating out twice!

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week12

Week 12 was donated to a friend since I was out of town, enjoying the great food and restaurants of San Francisco (more to come on that later).

However, here is a quick overview of the week's produce:

• Collards
• Spinach
• Salad greens
• Lettuce
• Radishes
• Cucumber
• Zucchini
• Beets
• Yellow squash
• Corn

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week11

This week's basket included a wider variety then the greens of early summer - squash, potatoes, and tomatoes are coming into season and expanding the menu!

The harvest:

• Potato
  
• Onion
  
• Tomato
  
• Beats (large and small)
  
• Hot peppers
  
• Yellow wax beans
  
• Yellow squash (perhaps patty pan)
  
• Cucumber
  
• Red leaf lettuce
  
• Carrots
  
• Italian zucchini
  

The potatoes, onions, and squashes made a wonderful roast vegetable dish - slice each and toss with olive oil, salt, pepper, red pepper flake, oregano and garlic powder. Roast at 400 degrees for 25 minutes or until all vegetables are cooked through.

The tomatoes were deep red and full flavored - so unlike any tomato that you'd buy at the store! Serve with cucumber, onion and feta cheese for a delicious Mediterranean salad.

Unfortunately, I'll be out of town for Week 12 and have donated the basket to some friends! Perhaps I can get them to blog on my behalf!

Perfect rice with a Zojirushi?

I recently purchased an induction Zojirushi rice cooker - over the course of the last month I've been experimenting with a couple of different rices and recipes. So far one of my favorite creations was a dried cherry, vanilla, sugar and white rice porridge. This was an incredible hot breakfast alternative to oatmeal. Overall the Zojirushi does a good job with rice and certainly takes a lot of the hassle out of it. One of the things i like the most is the ability to set the timer to finish the rice at a certain time - for instance, in the morning add the rice and water and set to be ready for dinner. I usually make brown rice and so far my experience has been that the rice is overcooked - I get better results when I use less water then the instructions direct. While its more convenient then stove top, I'm not sure that its worth the price (almost $300).

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week10

The horror ... The horror ... Week 10 went dramatically wrong when i forgot to pickup the weekly basket. Sorry for you regulars expecting an update but no new news this week. Week 11 shows up tomorrow so expect a full report this coming weekend! Yours truly - a very hungry Critic.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week9

Week 8 was an abundant amount of produce and we had to work to get through it all - still had beets, green beans and kale left when Week 9 arrived.

The picture includes a little bit of each item, but not all the produce. Week 9's basket included:

• Spinach
  
• English Peas
  
• Green Pepper
  
• Corn
  
• Squash
  
• Tomato
  
• Zucchini
  
• Cabbage
  
• Baby Greens
  
• Eggplant
  
• Collard Greens

I experimented a bit with the produce and one created a couple of great dishes. First was a vegetable succotash with green pepper, squash, corn, peas, basil, bacon, feta and garlic. Cut the bacon into small pieces and cook until crisp and grease has been rendered. Drain the grease and wipe the pan out with a paper towel. Add a bit of olive oil and saute the garlic. Then add the green peppers and squash. After a few minutes, add the peas, and then the corn. Remove from heat and add the reserved bacon bits, the basil and the feta cheese. Taste for salt and pepper and serve!

I've never been a huge fan of cabbage, but I created a quick, fresh slaw that changed my mind. Use about half the cabbage and slice it very thinly. As you slice, transfer to a bowl and salt each layer as you go. Let the cabbage sit - the salt will draw the water out helping to keep it crunchy. Using a mortar and pestle, grind several garlic cloves with some kosher salt and olive oil into a smooth paste. Transfer the paste to a bowl and whisk in some spicy sriracha sauce, fresh lemon juice, mayonnaise, and olive oil. After about 30 minutes, place the cabbage in some cheese cloth (or paper towels in a pinch), and squeeze out the water. Return the cabbage to the bowl, add dressing and toss to mix.

I'm your Prisoner

On a recent visit to Costco I picked up two wines by Orin Swift Cellars. The first I opened was the 2007 "The Prisoner" Napa Valley Red Wine. At first taste this wine was tightly wound; a juggernaut of flavor, tannin and alcohol. The alcohol hits you first - at 15.2% this wine is hefty. After decanting for over an hour, the alcohol was nicely balanced by layers of fruit and spice. After an hour more, the flavors kept unraveling - vanilla, clove, plum, black cherry ... this wine big and bold wine was simply amazing. At $30, this bottle is outside my typical price range for wine but definitely worth it for a splurge. Thank you random Cameron Hughes rep. for the great tip.

A fantastic IPA - Racer 5 by Bear Republic

While dining at Denver's Potager (see review on DenverRestaurantReview), I tried a IPA by Bear Republic called Racer 5. This beer was one of the best IPAs I've ever had. Thick creamy head, unfiltered golden hue, with a wonderfully bitter hoppy flavor. There are aromas of sweet fruit, an initial smoothness on the palate, followed by astringent drying, and a wheaty finish. This beer has a high alcohol content @ 7% but it is well balanced with IBUs at 69. Enjoy!!

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week8

Week 8 marks the first week when I did not make use of all the previous weeks produce! After bringing home week 8 from the local pickup point, I had to make room and tossed out the wilted chard and kale from the previous week. After weeks of greens, we're finally starting to move into the heart of summer - and that means tomatoes. Red, plump, juicy and flavorful tomatoes came in this week's basket. I used them sliced over cumin, cilantro turkey burgers with cheddar cheese wrapped in a leaf of lettuce. I used wedges in a salad with radish and red leaf lettuce.

This week's haul includes:

• Kohlrabi
  
• Curly Kale
  
• Red Leaf Lettuce
  
• Radishes
  
• Beets
  
• Zucchini
  
• Yellow Summer Squash
  
• Tomatoes
  
• Green Beans
  
• Artichokes
  
• Swiss Chard
  
• Cilantro
  

As for the other vegetables, I substituted thinly sliced zucchini and summer squash for nori in a smoked salmon roll. Salt and lightly oil the vegetables, then back for about 5 minutes in a 400 degree oven. Then arrange the slices on on plastic wrap, lightly pat out rice (in this case i used a purple sticky rice), then add ingredients and roll!

Another hit was a kohlrabi slaw dressed in a chipotle lime dressing. Peel the kohlrabi and shred using a box grater. Next, shred onion and apple. Salt the ingredients and let sit for several minutes. Prepare the dressing - in a blender combine the juice of one lime, honey, salt, mayonnaise, and a chipotle pepper. Blend to combine and add canola oil to achieve a thicker consistency. Squeeze the excess moisture from the vegetables then dress and enjoy!

Finally, take thinly sliced swiss chard and cook over high heat with lots of garlic and olive oil. Finish with a bit of lemon juice for a hint of freshness!

Omnivore's Dilemma

I just finished reading The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan (website). This book is an exploration of the food industry that feeds America - from industrial corn farming, to the fully commercialized organic movement, to rediscovered hunter / gather techniques. Rather then prescribe a plan of action or a specific diet to follow, Pollan details each food chain and leaves it up to the reader to make their own decisions. Pollan does an excellent job of making you question where your food is coming from and how it got from the farm to your table.
Society places a high value on convenience, prices and speed, however this is often to the detriment of flavor, sustainability, and nutrition. Unfortunately, for most of "middle America" it would be near impossible to move away from the cheap, subsidized food that we have grown so accustomed to. To do so would require a complete shift in what we value - the mentality would have to change from "all food is created equally" to a value system that takes into consideration all of the factors in the food's creation. Factors including environmental impact, nutrition, sustainability, long term health impact, balance of trade, biological diversity and flavor, should all be included in this new value system. After considering these, the $.99 ground chuck would no longer be the best value. However, to most people such talk is heresy - better to live in ignorance then to face the reality of our current industrialized food chain.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week7

Wow, week 7 really snuck up on me - after eating out several times this week for the Denver Restaurant Review, I barely had time to cook anything and now I'm down to 2 days before week eight's basket arrives. Week 7's basket includes:

• Kale
  
• Swiss Chard
  
• Butter Lettuce
  
• Spring Greens
  
• Cilantro
  
• Zucchini
  
• Broccholi
  
• English Peas
  
• and mystery vegetable (see picture below).

If you recognize the mystery vegetable let me know - my best guess is immature cauliflower. The head was surrounded by the very similar greens. It didn't have the same sweetness as cauliflower but was delicious nonetheless. Cut into wedges, toss in olive oil, salt, pepper and red pepper flake - then roast in a hot oven until tender and slightly toasted. Finish with a drizzle of nut oil (hazelnut or walnut).

Bones reviewed at Denver Restaurant Review ...

I've just finished my review of Frank Bonanno's new restaurant Bones - this modern Japanese noodle bar offers many great dishes and some that weren't ready for show-time. Check out the review for more details!

The Denver Restaurant Review @ http://www.denverrestaurantreview.com.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week6

Week 6 and I'm a bit behind on my eating - however, the trick is to find ways to combine the veggies together into one dish!

This week's basket includes:

• Kale
  
• Spring Onions
  
• Snap Peas
  
• Peas
  
• Beats
  
• Cauliflower
  
• Hearts of Romaine
  
• Dill
  
• Broccoli
  
• Zucchini
  
• Italian Parsley
  
• Swiss Chard
  

Try a grilled vegetable brown rice - grill quartered spring onions, sliced zucchini and mix with brown rice, peas, diced tomato and parsley. Season with salt, pepper, fresh lemon juice and a good olive oil. This was fresh, healthy and a great side dish to a grilled teriyaki beef.

Mixed drink creations with Domaine De Canton

I received a bottle of Domain De Canton (website) from a good friend of mine - this French ginger flavored cognac is a mixing miracle. Pairs beautifully with lemon, mint, orange and many other flavors.

Try it with lemon, rosemary, soda and a bit of vodka:

1 part lemon, rosemary simple syrup (See posting on St. Germain)
1 part Domaine De Canton
1 part Vodka
Soda water

Serve over ice and garnish with a bit of mint or rosemary.

Also wonderful in a a ginger, cucumber martini - use cucumber juice, vodka and Domaine De Canton.

Post comments with your recipes!

The art of cheese at Denver's "The Truffle"

While many large supermarkets have started stocking specialty cheeses, all too often the coolers are stocked with an overwhelming assortment of mediocrity. Not so at The Truffle Cheese Shop, where owner Karen DeLibero offers an assortment of small batch, artisan cheeses - including several by famed affineur Rolf Beeler. Upon entering The Truffle, turn yourself over to one of the knowledgeable staff who will guide you through the selection and tantalize your taste buds with free samples. In addition to cheeses, this Cherry Creek gem also routinely imports fresh truffles from Italy - traditionally a very hard to find item in Denver.

Enjoy!

The Truffle Cheese Shop
2906 E. 6th Avenue
Denver, CO 80206
303-322-7363

Mastering Rotisserie on the TEC Infrared Grill

The TEC infrared grill is the testosterone filled sports superstar of grilling - great @ hitting home runs w/ searing heat up to 1600 degrees, but struggles with the delicate stuff like slow grilling. Using the rotisserie attachment can be a bit challenging due to both temperature control and flare ups that result in burnt / charred exteriors. However, by following these simple guidelines you'll be on your way to rotisserie perfection. First remove the grates from the grill and start the grill. After the ceramic has come up to temperature, close the lid and set to medium. Secure the chicken to the spit. I like to tie the legs to the spit for a bit of extra security and to maintain the shape for presentation later. Place a 12"x9" disposable aluminum roasting pan above the burners - you may need to pull the flared sides out a bit more so it rests on the edges of the grill. Mount the spit in the rotisserie holes - make sure the aluminum pan below sits directly below the chicken - blocking direct heat and catching any juices. Turn the grill down to low, and close the lid. Depending on your preparation you may want to baste on occasion - but in general try to keep the lid closed to retain heat. After 75 minutes, measure the thigh's temperature - I'm looking for about 165 degrees (make your own decisions on doneness and temperature). Once done, remove the spit from the grill and let the chicken rest. Remove the spit and serve!

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week5

Its week 5 of the Grant Family Farms CSA - and the produce keeps on coming!

This week's take includes:

• Peas
  
• Red Leaf Lettuce
  
• Kohlrabi
  
• Spring Onions
  
• Snap Peas
  
• Swiss Chard
  
• Collard Greens
  
• Radishes
  
• Broccoli
  
• Curly Parsley
  
• Beets
  
• Spinach

So how do you use all this fresh produce? Well, the answer is only limited by your own creativity. So far I've made scrambled eggs w/ spring onion, parsley, peas and cheddar cheese. I sauteed the onions in butter, until softened, then added the peas and parsley. After the peas were just cooked through, i removed to a side dish, then scrambled the eggs in the same pan. Add the vegetables and cheese before the eggs are set and serve!

I also made a tort with collard greens and swiss chard. The tort was modeled after the Torta Pasqualina found in the Saveur Cooks Authentic Italian cook book. Make a simple tart dough of flour, water and olive oil. Then portion into 6 pieces, use three pieces and roll to create a layered bottom. Mix blanched swiss chard and collard greens with cream, parmesan and ricotta cheese. I also added some saffron for a bit of extra flavor. Fill the tart with the greens, then create small indentations and fill w/ eggs. Finally, roll the remaining three pieces of dough, and layer one by one with melted butter brushed between. Seal the dough on all sides but leave one small part open - then blow air in between the layers to create a beautiful puffed top. Bake until the custard is set (about 140), then remove and let cool before slicing.

Mix it up with St. Germain

After having St. Germain elderflower liqueur in Bistro One's wonderful Fleur De Lys cocktail, I decided to experiment with a bottle myself. Try my wonderful lemon, rosemary, orange soda following the recipe below.

First create a simple syrup with lemon and rosemary (bring strips of lemon zest, lemon juice, and sugar to a simmer - cook until sugar has completely dissolved. Remove from heat and add a couple of sprigs of rosemary. Let steep and cool for several minutes. Then strain and store.)

Mix:
1/2 part lemon, rosemary syrup
1 part Vodka (or more to taste)
1/2 part St. Germain

Serve on ice, fill to top with Italian Blood Orange Soda, stir and garnish with a sprig of fresh rosemary.

Thanks to Tina and Tom @ Lido Wine for the St. Germains - it was perfect!

Choffy?

Found an interesting new product called Choffy - finely ground cocoa beans that you brew. For about $15 I purchased 12 ounces; brewing instructions call for 2 tablespoons per serving, so, this should work out to about 35 6 oz cups.

The flavor was good, similar to coffee with a bit of bitterness - when sweetened with a bit of vanilla soymilk and agave syrup it was excellent. Not sure that this will ever supplant my morning cup of coffee but it is a nice option when you feel like something different.

Don't skimp on the portions - 2 TBS per 6 oz of water was a must other wise it was too watered down.

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week4

Week 4's share from the Grant Family Farms CSA included:

1. Baby Beets
   
2. Peas
   
3. Garlic Scapes
   
4. Cilantro
   
5. Radishes
   
6. Kohlrabi
   
7. Red Leaf Lettuce
   
8. Green Lettuce
   
9. Curly Kale
   
10. Tuscan Kale
    
11. Rhubarb
    
12. Broccoli

It was a busy week with lots of dining out so I didn't have a lot of opportunities to experiment with the produce. The beets were halved or quartered to create a uniform size, then steamed with the greens and finished with a bit of salt, pepper and olive oil. The garlic scapes were sauteed in sesame oil. Then the kale was added and mixed until coated with the sesame oil. Hot chicken broth was added and the dish allowed to simmer until the greens cooked down and the broth reduced. The dish was finished with salt, pepper, sesame seeds and a bit of fresh sesame oil. This turned out great!

The only other interesting dish was a slaw from the kohlrabi - i peeled the kohlrabi, then shredded on a mandolin. While the kohlrabi dried a bit, i made a light dressing in the blender with mayo, lime, chipotle chili, honey, salt, pepper, rice wine vinegar, cilantro and olive oil. I added the olive olive oil while blending - adding enough to achieve the desired thickness / texture and flavor.

I then tossed the shredded kohlrabi with the dressing, added freshly chopped cilantro and allowed to settle in the fridge for about an hour. This was delicious - the texture was crisp, and the flavor spicy, tangy and a bit sweet.

Just picked up Week 5 today - included some perfect, fresh, sweet red cherries from the western slope - Yum!

Cherry Heaven - Kasteel Rouge

I recently had this beer at the Cheeky Monk on Colfax as a dessert beer to follow up my Mussels and Frites, and several other great beers. The beer has a very strong cherry flavor without being heavy, syrupy or overly sweet. I was recently able to find it through my favorite wine store - Lido Wine in old town Littleton. Thanks Tom and Tina for bringing it in for me!

WOW - Stuffed Chicken Breast

Last night I made a delicious meal of Chicken breast stuffed with mushroom ragu, and goat cheese accompanied by a light lemon and garlic kale.

To make filing, saute lardons of bacon until they've released their fat and are slightly crispty. Remove and reserve the bacon, leaving the bacon fat in the pan. Saute finely diced onion and shallots in the bacon fat until soft and starting to darken. Deglaze the pan with a bit of white wine and simmer until the alcohol has evaporated and the wine has become syrupy. Add an assortment of diced mushrooms (I used regular white, oyster and fresh porcini) and saute until they've released their juices. Remove from heat and add the reserved bacon and minced chives. Let cool, then incorporate into goat cheese. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed (Optionally, add a few drops of truffle oil to add that extra punch of earthy flavor). Texture should be smooth with chunks of mushroom. Cover and chill until ready to assemble chicken.

Using skin on, frenched chicken breasts, cut a small pocket into the center of the breast. You should be able to make one incision, moving the knife laterally to carefully expand the pocket the length of the chicken breast. Carefully stuff the pocket with the mushroom cheese mixture - take care not to overfill and burst through the skin or flesh. Using tooth pics, seal up the pocket. Salt and pepper the exterior of the chicken. Heat an oven proof skillet to medium, and melt butter with olive oil. Saute the chicken, skin side down until it has developed an nice golden exterior. Then flip, and move 325 degree oven for 12 - 15 minutes to cook through. Watch the breast carefully to avoid overcooking.

While the breast is in the oven, melt butter and olive oil in a pot. Add garlic scapes, and chili flake. Then add sliced kale. Add a bit of moisture to help the kale cook down - i use chicken stock. Once cooked, remove from heat and finish with a bit of lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, pepper and a bit of olive oil.

Plate the kale and serve the chicken breast slightly askew over the kale.

Oogave Soda!

Just picked up a 4 pack of Oogavé soda's at wholefoods - Wow, barely over 100 calories for a 12 ounce soda and the flavors rock. So far I've tried the Ginger Ale and Root Beer (the root beer is my favorite).

Oogavé is also a denver based company - so it fits right in with my buy local philosophy!

A little on the pricy side (@ $1.75 per bottle), but for a special treat these are worth it! And much better for you then any of the mainstream sodas.

The perfect solution to summer's heat - Haut Marin

The Haut Marin Cuvee Marine 2008 ($16) was a delicious light white wine that was the perfect solution to the summer time heat. Crisp, acidic with hints of pineapple and green apple - this wine was perfect on its own and would pair beautifully with many light fish dishes. I purchased mine from my friends Tom and Tina at Lido Wine. According to Tina, who's wine palate is much more advance then mine ... "It's a 100% colombard, and the aromas and flavors are of fresh shelled peas, mineral, lime and floral notes."

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Week3

So I should have started this on week 1 - the first week of delivery, but i hadn't even started the blog yet so I think that I should get a pass!

This year I've taken out a small share from the Grant Family Farms through their CSA program. For about $20 per week, you get a delivery of fresh produce to a local pick up point. This will be a series of blog posts chronicling the weekly contents and various ways to use them.

This weeks farmers basket included: collard greens, curly kale, tucscan kale, kholrabi, rhubarb, spring beets, spring turnips, garlic scapes, cilantro, italian parsley, green lettuce, and red leaf lettuce.

The spring beets are sweet and tender - I recommend separating the greens from the bulb. Toss the bulbs in olive oil, salt and pepper, then roast the bulbs gently in the oven until you can run a knife through with little to no resistance. Let the roasted beets cool, and prepare the greens. Saute the greens in a bit of olive oil, butter, salt and a quick squeeze of lemon. Once the bulbs are cooled, quarter or half depending on size. Plate the greens, then the bulb quarters. Finish with a drizzle of aged balsamic, high quality extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. For an bit more pizazz add some crumbled blue cheese.

Every week has included another bunch of cilantro - so I've had to be creative to keep using it. A couple of ideas have been: Cilantro rice with lime, turkey burgers with cilantro, lime, cumin, diced green chili, finished with extra sharp cheddar cheese, cilantro and collard greens slowly braised with paprika.

I cooked the rhubarb down with a bit of lemon juice, sugar, whole star anise and vanilla. Once soft and starting to disintegrate, added quartered fresh strawberries. This compote can be served chunky with plain yogurt, or as a topping to many summer desserts. Alternatively you could blend and strain into a smooth sauce that would be perfect base for a light summer cocktail with either rum or vodka, then finished with a sprig of mint.

So far the kholrabi has been a bit of a mystery - my own research indicated that you could cook the greens, but my first attempt still rendered rather tough eats. Perhaps with a bit more time they would cook down like collards into a more silky and soft dish. The main head can be prepared in many ways - I tried peeling, cutting into wedges, tossing with oil, salt and pepper then grilling. This came out well - make sure you cook out all of the raw crunch though! I finished with a bit of high quality extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and a bit of chopped parsley.

The garlic scapes have been wonderful additions to various kale or collard greens dishes - just be careful to not overcook or you'll loose the flavor. Speaking of kale, my favorite method is super easy - olive oil, butter, salt, roughly chopped garlic scapes and a sprinkling of crushed red pepper in a saute pan. Melt the butter and let the peppers release their flavor into the oil. Add roughly chopped kale and stir to coat with the butter and oil mixture. You may want to add a bit more moisture to help the kale steam and cook down - either lemon juice or chicken stock works well. I recommend finishing with a bit of lemon to cut through the oil and maintain a nice light, fresh, clean taste.

Kale also worked well with a light summer pasta made with grilled chicken sausages, fresh tomatoes, parsley, onion, garlic and, of course, cilantro! Cook the sausages until browned on all sides, then remove and let cool. Deglaze the pan with chicken stock. Then saute the onions, garlic, red pepper flake and summer squash. While cooking the pasta, slice the sausages on bias. Reserve some of the pasta cooking liquids, and drain the cooked pasta. Return the cooking liquids to the pot and add the onions, garlic, summer squash, and kale. Cook over medium heat until the kale has cooked through. Take off the heat and add the tomatoes, cilantro, italian parsley, fresh mozarella and the cooked posta. Stir to combine, then finish with high quality extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper to taste.

The lettuces have been super fresh and wonderful in a light salad finished with a freshly prepared vinaigrette. I shake most of my vinaigrette's in a squeeze bottle for easy dressing, storage and cleanup. My favorite vinaigrette is olive oil, lemon juice, dijon mustard, salt, pepper, minced shallot and a bit of white truffle oil to give it a bit more body. Lightly dressed greens in this dressing will always be a hit.

Good luck with your weekly basket and I hope that I've inspired you to try something new!

Weekly Blog on Grant Family Farms CSA - Farm Tour

A couple of weeks ago I visited the Grant Family Farm north of Fort Collins to check on my produce. As you'll see from other blog postings, I've been receiving a weekly produce basket as part of my veggie share for the year. The folks at Grant Family Farms really do make you feel like you're part of the farm - after all, if the farm is hit by hail, you feel it in your weekly produce basket!

The tour included a a visit to the ducks, and turkeys - both for sale to members. The turkeys require a down payment but will be ready in time for thanksgiving.

The surrounding farm land is spacious and open - nothing but beautiful blue sky, green grasses and light mountain breezes rolling off the foothills. The field in the picture below is of over winter wheat almost ready for harvest. This organic wheat should show up in our basics later in the year as artisan ground whole wheat flower.

We also toured the newly created hen houses where the farm raises all their free range Rhode Island Reds and collects the beautiful small, brown eggs. The eggs, although small, are full flavored with bright, golden, thick yolks and will continue to get larger as the birds mature. As explained by our host with the bull horn - the hens are allowed to freely roam through out the yard and near by fields, scavenging for bugs, and worms to supplement their normal grain diet. To help protect the hens, the farm has enlisted the services of a couple of llamas (not pictured), which they claim keep watch over the flock and will ward off any hungry coyotes.

As we continued the tour around the farm we were able to see the farm hands in action transplanting row upon row of tomato seedlings from the near by hot house to the fields. It was easy to imagine how in a few weeks, all these fields would be bursting with produce ready to harvest and bring to the dinner table. We can even see the changes in produce week over week - what started off in week 1 as small, delicious heads of red leaf lettuce have matured into larger, fuller heads each and every week.

I hope you stay tuned each week as I give you the blow by blow of the week's take and how to prepare it in fresh and fun ways.

Welcome to the 300 Lb. Man

Hello, this is the start of the 300 Lb. Man blog - dedicated to all things food. While i maintain a blog for the Denver restaurant scene (http://www.denverrestaurantreview.com), this blog is an outlet for all my other food rants and raves, including local produce, new product finds, wines, beers, and random opinion pieces.

While I'm not actually 300 Lbs., I love the name - and would probably be 300 Lbs. if I didn't exercise some discretion and maintain good physical activities to balancing my love of food.

Enjoy the blog!

TheCritic@denverrestaurantreview.com